The Merino Studio
Anything can be cut and sewn. At Gertrude Lee, we choose to knit.
The Merino Studio is where we explore the possibilities of knitwear through technique, construction and yarn. Across Milano, Rib, Pointelle and Sheer Knit & Lace, we revisit the craft of knitting in search of new ways to create shape, movement and texture.
From the yarn itself to the final garment, every decision influences how a piece feels, performs and lives over time. We work closely with specialised family-owned knitting ateliers in Lithuania and Italian heritage yarns to refine each construction through repeated sampling, testing and adjustment.
Navigate the menu to learn more about our yarns, knitting techniques and garment care.
- OUR YARN
01.1 Fibre
The quality of a knitted garment begins with the fibre itself.
We primarily work with fine Italian merino wool selected for its softness, resilience and ability to retain shape over time. Unlike many fibres chosen purely for softness, merino combines comfort with durability, making it particularly well suited for garments designed to be worn frequently and kept for years.
The performance of knitwear depends not only on the fibre, but on how that fibre is spun, knitted and finished.
01.2 Process
The journey from fibre to garment involves a series of carefully controlled stages.
The wool is cleaned, sorted and spun into yarn before being knitted to specific gauges and constructions. Throughout development, adjustments are made to stitch density, tension and finishing techniques to achieve the desired balance of structure, softness and longevity.
Every Gertrude Lee garment is sampled repeatedly before production begins.
Working closely with our knitting partners allows us to refine each piece until the desired balance of comfort, shape and performance is achieved.
- ABOUT MERINO WOOL
02.1 Fibre Structure
Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, primarily farmed in Australia and New Zealand.
The fibre is naturally fine, elastic and breathable. Its characteristic crimped structure creates small air pockets that help regulate temperature while allowing the fibre to return to its original shape after wear.
This natural elasticity contributes to both comfort and durability.
02.2 Length & Fineness
Not all merino fibres are equal.
Fibre fineness is measured in microns, with finer fibres creating a softer hand feel. Fibre length is equally important, as longer fibres produce stronger yarns and reduce the likelihood of pilling over time.
The balance between fineness and length helps determine the quality and longevity of the finished garment.
02.3 Temperature Regulation
Merino wool is naturally insulating and breathable.
The fibre can absorb moisture without feeling damp, helping regulate body temperature across changing conditions. During colder months, the crimped structure traps warmth close to the body. In warmer temperatures, moisture is released through evaporation, helping maintain comfort.
This adaptability allows merino garments to be worn throughout the year.
02.4 Gauge & Construction
Gauge refers to the density of a knitted fabric and is measured by the number of stitches within a given area.
Finer gauges create lighter, more refined garments, while lower gauges create heavier structures with greater visual texture.
Construction is equally important. The same yarn can behave very differently depending on how it is knitted. Changes in gauge, stitch structure and tension influence the garment’s drape, weight, elasticity and appearance.
- GARMENT CARE
We design our garments to be worn often and kept for years.
With proper care, knitwear develops character over time while maintaining its original performance and shape.
03.1 Washing
Merino wool naturally resists odour and does not require washing after every wear.
In many cases, airing a garment is sufficient. When washing is needed, use cool water and a mild wool detergent. Hand washing is recommended, although machine washing on a dedicated wool programme may also be suitable depending on the garment.
Always follow the care instructions provided on the garment label.
03.2 Drying
After washing, gently remove excess water without wringing the garment.
Lay flat on a clean towel and allow it to dry naturally away from direct heat sources. Avoid hanging knitwear while wet, as this may affect its shape.
03.3 Storing
Store knitwear folded rather than hanging.
Folding helps preserve the original proportions of the garment and reduces stress on the knitted structure. For longer periods of storage, keep garments clean and protected from direct sunlight and humidity.
- OUR KNITTING TECHNIQUES
04.1 Milano Knit
Milano knit is the architectural foundation of the Gertrude Lee wardrobe.
Created through a double-knit construction, Milano offers structure, stability and shape while maintaining the comfort and flexibility of knitwear. The technique allows us to create clean silhouettes, sharp proportions and a tailored appearance entirely in knit.
Milano is used throughout many of our signature pieces, where precision and longevity are essential.
04.2 Rib Knit
Rib knit is defined by elasticity and movement.
Its vertical structure allows the garment to adapt naturally to the body while retaining shape over time. Depending on gauge and yarn weight, rib knit can feel close-fitting and sculptural or relaxed and fluid.
The technique forms the foundation of many everyday essentials within the collection.
04.3 Pointelle
Pointelle is an openwork knitting technique that introduces lightness and transparency.
Through carefully placed openings in the knitted structure, pointelle creates texture, depth and a softer expression. The balance between coverage and openness gives the garments a subtle sensuality while maintaining the comfort of knitwear.
Pointelle allows us to explore a lighter, more delicate side of knit while preserving the integrity and longevity of the garment.
04.4 Sheer Knit & Lace
Sheer Knit & Lace explores the more expressive side of the Gertrude Lee wardrobe.
Designed primarily for occasion dressing, these pieces combine transparency, pattern and movement within the knitted structure itself. Openwork constructions create depth and lightness, allowing the garment to interact with the body in a different way than more structured knit techniques.
The development process requires exceptional precision. Changes in tension, gauge and stitch placement can transform both the appearance and performance of the fabric.
This is where we push the boundaries of what knit can become. A space for experimentation, craftsmanship and some of the most distinctive pieces in each collection.
